When I was planning my trip I bought Lonely Planet’s Europe on a Shoestring. I must say that it has been immensely helpful in picking the right destinations to stay and visit.
On our trip, documented on this blog, we used to get lost in any new city or rather look about blankly figuring out which direction should we head. Luckily at this time Lonely Planet's Europe on a shoestring came to our rescue. It helped us find the tourism offices with ease and also pointed us in the right directions to our hotels and lanes we had to explore.
A little bulky for a backpacker, but very helpful. Do refer to this guide if you want explore the European cities without burning a hole in your pocket.
Geneva was a day’s stopover but before we could leave this amazing city, and we still to visit a couple of places. So we packed our bags, left them at the reception and were off to the United Nations. We rode the tram. Super fun!
It was a long walk into the UN headquarters, with almost 3 levels of security screenings. We walked about the gardens before we actually entered the premises. With heavy security all around, it kinda makes you wanna act stupid. Unfortunately I could'nt act my obnoxious self as I was sure if the guards didn’t shoot me, Tan sure would.
The UN office or Palais des Nations is a massive and impressive structure. The Palais stands in the 45-hectre Ariana Park which is full of trees over 100 years old. It is said that the park was gifted by the last descendant of the Revilliod de Rive family to the UN on one condition that the peacocks roam the grounds freely. Also beneath the foundation stone of the Palais des Nations laid on 7 September 1929 lies a casket containing a document listing the names of the League of Nations Member States, a copy of the Covenant of the League and specimen coins of all the countries represented at its Tenth Assembly.
The Palais houses various agencies of the UN such as WHO, UNFPA, ECE, etc. This centre is always buzzing with activity around the year, with different agencies conducting meets and diplomats from representing countries lending their opinions. What’s amazing about this structure is the fact that most of the elements in this building were built from items gifted by representing countries. Our tour guide, an impeccable French man, told us that India gifted the peacocks, which can still be seen roaming around in full splendor.
We got to see the conference rooms, even sat in the seats that the diplomats do. Many treaties were signed in this very premise. It’s a place so full of history! It was almost as if all my history lessons had come alive.
Our tour around the building ended at the library cum gift shop and I ended up buying souvenirs for my family. A woolen shawl for Mama, a key chain for Papa and a digital clock calculator for Lovell. The proceeds of these go to different organizations of the UN, so i did not feel the pinch on my pocket much.
From the UN we walked to the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), private humanitarian institution based in Geneva.
With the Red Cross flag billowing in the wind, you cannot miss it. Enter this area and you are faced with the recuperation's of war. The pain, the suffering and also hope. The ICRC houses various mandates made to protect the victims of international and internal armed conflicts, and also the medicines and medical treatments administered to victims’ of war. Founded by Henry Dunant, you can see a chronological series of developments in caring for victim from the world wars. I don’t know how long we spent here, but I was sure glad to get out.
From here we made a mad dash back to the hotel, grabbed our bags and hurrried to the station - Geneva's Gare de Cornavin. This time on we had to go through the international transit as we were leaving Switzerland. Our train tickets cost us zilch! Thanks to our Eurail passes. After clearing the customs, we had to wait an hour for the train. Bye bye Switzerland, I enjoyed every moment in this beautiful country. Lyons, France France baby France. Foot down on French soil. We disembark at Gare de Lyon Part Dieu and the place was like Churchgate station. So damn crowded. Oh God and people only speak French. With my little knowledge of it, it was not helpful. We got off on the wrong side of the station and spent the next half hour being lost, yet again. Thankfully we finally managed to ask someone who knew little English for directions and found the hotel easily. Luckily it was just walking distance on the other side of the station.
After a quick shower, we head down to the restaurant to savour authentic French cuisine. I had some fancy beef dish, and it was gross! My fault actually. Anyway it was a long day. After hanging out in the garden after dinner, we finally called it a night.
I was really sad to leave Interlaken, I so loved the place and the solitude it offered. However I had to move on. Packed our bags and took the train to Geneva, it was quite a long ride. We went from freezing in the cold to pleasant weather. By noon we were ready to strip our winter wear off. Luckily this time too the hotel was just opposite the station. Our room was extremely small, but since we just had to spend a night in this city it hardly mattered.
There are so many different races of people in Geneva. With roads lined with almost all nationality flags and the headquarters of the United Nations, we learned that Geneva is also known as the world’s most compact metropolis. After resting for a while, it was time to hit the streets.
Our first stop the ‘Jet d’Eau’. Even from a distance you can see this spectacular stream rise high above in the skies. The city’s greatest landmark, this jet of water rises almost 10 kms into the sky. We spent our time viewing this spray, picking up hot dogs before we walked the stretch to Jardin Anglais. Situated on the banks of a harbor, this garden boasts of beautiful flowers and monuments.
We passed a huge clock made of flowers. The “L'horloge fleurie" or the flower clock pays homage to the watch industry and is made up of eight concentric circles filled with different plants and colours depending on the season. Close to it is the National Monument.
From here we hiked up to Cathédrale St. Pierre. With Gothic influences in architecture, this cathedral is displays some Romanesque features in the form of beautiful Roman mosaics which are said to date back to the 4th century. If you are here, you must climb the tower. 150+ steps, it offers a spectacular aerial view of Geneva. Phew! In the cathedral you must observe the flute piano and choir stand. Absolutely spectacular!
After this we lazily walked through the streets, enjoying a mini fare on the way. Close to our hotel we walked into a supermarket. The guy there got talking and asked if were from India. Damn! I think our colour gave us away. Anyway he told me that he too was in India in New Delhi for four years as his Dad was a Diplomat. And he did a ‘Namaste’ the next time we went in. LOL tan totally freaked out. I on the other hand thought it was real cute.
My internet withdrawal symptoms had reached danger point. Phoooo, thankfully I found an internet café and quickly checked my mails, sent mails and chatted with whoever was online on my list. Tan chilled out for a while in the room before we met up again and walked around the block, deciding where to have dinner. We finally settled on a pizzeria opposite the station. The pizza was huge and expensive. Damn damn. Anyway back in the hotel, I crashed after having a bath.
We stuffed ourselves with breakfast and made a mad dash to Interlaken West train station. We bought tickets on the Golden Panoramic Pass for 123 Swiss Francs per person, Ouch, this excludes the cable car costs up Mt. Titlis.
We prepared ourselves for a long journey. It takes 3 1/2 hours one way by train. But as it is in Switzerland, the countryside is breathtaking. Our journey again involved changing a number of trains. From Interlaken west to Interlaken Ost, and from here to Hergiswil, and from here to Engleberg. For more info on the various scenic routes available do check Swiss Travel System.
From Engleberg station it was a short hike to the base of Titlis Rotair. I was super excited to ride the cable cars but when it came to actually sitting in them I was super duper freaked out. The ride to the top involves three aerial cable cars and various changes in the screenery. As you rise up you can hear them Swiss cows with their bells tolling to rows and rows of pine trees to finally clear white blankets of snow.
We rode the world’s first rotating cable car. Yeah yeah! Finally on the summit of Klein Titlis which is about 3,028 meters above sea level, we were as excited as one could be. However unlike Jungfrau this place was pretty crowded and the weather too was gloomy. But what the heck. There was snow and I had a blast making snow angels, much to Tan’s disgust. I must have embarrassed her totally!
We spent a couple of hours on the summit clicking pictures, feeding the birds, and savouring the local delights at the restaurant. This place also has a ski resort, so its no wonder we saw many people skiing down the slopes. Wow!
Sadly it was time for us to go. On our way down the cables, we played guess the county as they flags were pasted on the cable cars. Having made our way back into Interlaken, we see not a soul in the street. No one. Trust me when I say no one. The reason being a football game – Man U v/s Chelsea. Grabbed our dinner and crashed in our rooms. It’s our last night in Interlaken. I feel a bit sad to leave this heaven on earth, but tomorrow we go to Geneva, the next stop in our trip and the last one in Switzerland.
Today we just chilled. Having got up just in time for breakfast, we raced down to catch our meal. Cannot afford to miss free food.
Now since we decided to stay in Interlaken again and not go anywhere, I took this opportunity to explore the other side of town. I just walked about aimlessly, passing cafes, modern structures and beautiful homes with more gnomes in the garden. It was about 10 days into our trip and having not used the internet for so long, I was facing severe web withdrawal symptoms. On my walk about the town I kept on scouting for an internet café. Damn damn, only one in the whole place and it was closed! Aaargh. Lunch was canned luncheon meat which had carried from India. And after that we caught up on some much needed sleep.
In the evening Tan & I decided to walk about the town. After a long walk about we sat in a garden just talking about life, work, love and our travel so far. In short it was a fantastic day in a fantastic town.
Today we will be scaling the heights of Europe – Jungfraujoch, the high mountain in Europe at 3,571 meters above sea level. To get here, we had to wake up super early at 4.30 to catch the first train. A clear sky was predicted. Return tickets to Jungfrau cost 140 Swiss Francs. From Interlaken we made our way to Interlaken Ost from where we took the train to Lauterbrunnen. The train journey was out of this world. It’s really amazing when you think how man build rail tracks on routes like these. Some were so narrow ans almost looked impossible to maneuver.
Getting to Jungfraujoch, is a long journey. You got to change trains three times. From Lauterbrunnen we had to take the train cart, it’s smaller than a train and runs on tracks which have grips, to Kleine Scheidegg. At all these locations we had to get off the train and step outdoors, so that we get used to the rise in altitude. Kleine Scheidegg is a pretty little station and we stopped to do some sightseeing. There’s nothing much to see but amazing valleys and lots of snow. With temperatures at 0 degrees, we then had to board the gauge rack railways to Jungfraujoch. Our 9km ride to the top was breath-taking, with the ice palace all the while glinting in the sun.
Soon we are on the top of Europe. Whooo hoo. Here you find a series of tunnels leading to various buildings. We just followed the signs and made our way to different places. First we landed at the ice sculptures where you can find intricate works. Man was it cold here. Despite four layers of clothings I was still feeling cold. Then we walked up out into the open snow. Wow. Really wow. And the scene from here, f%$*ing mindblowing. I threw a couple of snow balls at Tan, who just made a face at me. And soon we realized we were sinking in the snow. Plus we were wearing walking shoes, so totally not equipped for walking in the snow (mental note to self, next time come prepared with hiking boots). We walk back to the comfort of the building where we pass by restaurants, a small cinema and an observatory and research station. Here it was freaky. Called the Sphinx Terrace, this structure has a landing that’s suspended into the air. Under you, you can see a sheer drop and snow and more snow. I for sure had my tummy in a knot.
We have a quick look around and scamper back to the safety of the landing. Oh it was freezing all the while. -4 degrees, we soon came to know. However the cold did not stop us. We decided to try some adventure sports. Once again out in the snow and the sun shining, we walked into blinding light. The scene was so white, that you need to have your sunglasses on to deter the light. What we can see is miles and miles of sun.
There were a couple of options in adventure sports. We decided to try the Tyroline. A small hike to a mount and soon we were off screaming our guts out like banshees. Tan went first and I followed. Aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh. And then I landed in snow. The experience was super wow but it ended so soon.
We sat out on the deck observing the scene. After basking in the sun for almost half an hour, we decide it’s time to head back. The return journey takes you through another route. Jungfraujoch - Kleine Scheidegg – Grindelwald. I was amazed by the countryside. Everything is so picture perfect. From rows of coniferous trees to a lone cow grazing in the pastures to hillside filled with wild flowers and houses with beautiful gardens, Switzerland is one breath-taking country. I wish I could own a home, here right in the middle of nowhere. From Grindelwald we had to change trains again to Interlaken Ost. And a 5 minute ride lands us back in Interlaken.
Suddenly we realize we have not had lunch. It’s about four in the evening and we decide to walk about the town. Deciding to have a budget meal, choose Mc Donald’s. Bad choice, the food was horrendous, and they make you play for ketchup. That’s it! From now on its food bought at local supermarkets and hot dogs, except for the one time where we treat ourselves to the local cuisine.
We decide not to go to Lucerne and chill out in our room. Later in the evening, we grab hot dogs and sit by the river trail eating our dinner. A small walk in the area leaves us wondering if we are the only two souls in this town. All in all it was a wonderful day.
Today is my mama’s birthday, calculating the time difference I decide it’s time to call home. Right after an awesome European breakfast, I made the call. Mama and Papa were so excited that I was in Switzerland. It was Sunday, we were really low on cash and no forex centres were open, plus our day trips across Italy left us dead tired. We decided to chill in Interlaken instead. Our initial plan involved making a day trip to Austria but we had absolutely no energy and no money.
So we decided to walk about. Found a supermarket and bought groceries. It was a way cheaper option than dining out. Tan took the day to do her laundry and while she was at it, I went about exploring Interlaken. Such a small place, but so beautiful. I followed a trail from our hotel, adjacent the railway station and followed it till it opened out to the lake. On my walk I passed pastures, beautiful homes with amazing gardens and little gnomes, a dam and snow covered mountains.
After a while I decided to sit by the stream and do nothing. I don’t know for how long I sat, but I got my much needed Jolene time. I took out my sandwich and soon some ducks, swans and geese came by. Just for the occasional train passing by, the rest of time it was so serene. I could only think what an amazing watercolour painting the scene would make.
Now let me tell you a little bit about this amazing place. Interlaken, they say is a backpackers haven. I couldn't agree more. The place is so small that most of Interlaken lies between the two train stations of Interlaken West and Interlaken Ost. The main shopping street is just a walk of 20 minutes and runs between the stations.And the name Interlaken comes as it is located between Lake Brienz to the east and Lake Thun to the west. This came to me in a blindly flash as we were journeying down Mount Jungfrau.
Finally I met up with Tan and we went back to the hotel. After that we went to savour the local cuisine, and not save our money eating only sandwiches. After all it was my Mama’s birthday and I needed a treat! Ordered for some sumptuous prawns which were supposed to be spicy. And then in the middle of the night we decided it was time for a stroll. At night it was a different story. All places light up and sounds of music drifting by. After freezing our butts off it was time to call it a night.
It's our last few hours in Italy. And from the time I have been here, that's about a week, I have grown to love everything about this country - the food, the people, the culture, the art,architecture, sculpture and even the language. I love Italy!
From Bologna we had to make our way to Switzerland - the land of snow covered mountains as far as the eye can see. We took the Intercity Plus to Milano (Milan) which cost us 20 Euros and from Milan to Interlaken Ost just 5 Euros aboard the Eurostar, thanks to our Eurail pass. They journey to Interlaken involved a lot of train switching. Milano Centrale to Spiez to Brig to Interlaken.
The view on our journey was breathtaking. The Italian countryside is so laid back and wonderful. Few houses, a church in the middle of nowhere. Wow! Then we entered a long long tunnel which lasted for almost 20-25 minutes, in the meantime I dozed off as there was nothing to see, and then suddenly blingly light... voila! Switzerland baby! And I see snow. I almost do a little jig in my seat. For those travelling to Europe and intend visiting Switzerland, make sure you apply for a Swizz visa. Then my Schengen Visa did'nt permit entering into this European country. Do note this was at the time of my travel. Please do check the Schengen Visa site for the latest updates.
After quick switchovers at Spiez & Brig which are in Switzerland and temperatures hovering single digits, we find ourselves at Interlaken West. This city is just a kilometer long, which I discovered on my numerous walks. Thankfully the hotel - Hotel Central Continental was just across the station and it took no time for us to settle in the warmth of our room. Our room was beautiful. Huge French windows and the decor was glamorous yet with character.
The view from our room was awesome. We could see the snow covered mountains, a river just below our balcony window, swans, ducks paddling by...it was heaven on earth. After a long lazy soak in the tub, we stepped out to grab sandwiches (our staple diet) and sat on the balcony enjoying our dinner. I could'nt believe that I was enjoying this kind of a life. I feel blessed. I feel wonderful to be in Switzerland.
.JPG)
.JPG)
